A silent Saturday, some seaweed (and a hot bath)

Paris was deserted this morning. Not a person in sight, not a car on the street…the whole country is headed South to the sunshine – the radio just announced 600 kilometers of bumper to bumper traffic throughout France today. Paris is back to its usual gray, temperate self – which this pregnant lady appreciates!

I was enjoying the silence until I got to the door of our local boulangerie and found the sign above. They too are somewhere in the great national traffic jam. Thus we are doomed to eat mediocre croissants till the 2nd of August…sigh.

The Saturday market was equally devoid of shoppers, some regulars were already on holiday – their spots taken by knick-knack vendors.

Thank goodness there were still some fruits and vegetables in residence. I picked up some beefsteak tomatoes and sweetpeas, apricots and white nectarines. I shelled the peas at my desk, watching reruns of The West Wing - and there were a few escapees. I can't crouch down under the desk anymore, so G. went in (above and beyond the call of duty).

If we are dining a deux on Saturday evening, I often buy fish – today the fishmonger had some very shiny sea bass, and a summer rarity – salicorn, a crunchy, almost coral-like seaweed. Sautéed with a bit of garlic and some black pepper, it tastes like a beach holiday.

We spent a quiet afternoon looking at a book of baby names.

No, the pots you see above are not an early dinner – that’s G. (wherever did I find this man?) heating water for my bath. It’s getting downright 19th century around here. Our hot water heater has been out for 3 weeks. I’ll give you the very short version of my French customer service rant (no Paris blog would be complete without one). Suffice it to say that when the second repairman came in (we are now on #3), he looked at the heater, looked at me and said: “Il faut pas installer de la merde, Madame.” You shouldn’t have installed a piece of shit. As in so many customer service situations in France: when in doubt, blame the client.

I’ve been feeling the uncontrollable urge to clean – which, if the folklore is correct, means the baby will come within a few days. That would be 5 weeks early, and perfectly fine with me. I've also been practicing my "15 minute meals" - because as much as I love to putter around the kitchen, my time there is likely to be reduced in the coming months (I would hate to fall asleep standing up at the stove).

Personally, I love dinner that stares back. Gutting my first fish was an initiation rite on par with losing my virginity – who knew there was such a dangerous, ravenous individual hiding behind the prim and proper Miss.

Whole fish doesn't sound like fast food, but it is. You put in the time later, boning at the table (better for digestion and conversation). I know most Americans don’t like to work for their food, but unpacking a whole fish is one of my favorite culinary activities. It looks so decedent on the plate – you feel you are playing a game (Operation comes to mind), rather than just eating a virtuous fillet. The protective skin makes quick methods like broiling a real option – there’s no risk of dry, charred flesh. The eyeball is basically like one of those Purdue self-timers – when it pops, chances are it’s done.

‘15 minute’ sea bass and salicorn for 2

2 whole sea bass (8-10 oz. each) rinsed and gutted
Extra virgin olive oil
Coarse sea salt
1 lemon, cut into wedges

Preheat the broiler. Place the fish on a baking sheet lined with aluminum foil. Drizzle with olive oil and add a pinch of salt. Broil five minutes on each side (not too, too close to the flame). Check whole fish the same way you would a fillet – it should be firm, opaque all the way through, and come easily off the bone. Serve whole with lemon wedges.

If you are not having the Queen of England over for dinner, you might include a poubelle de table – literally a ‘garbage plate’ for the bones. (I just push my fish skeleton to one side - because you never really know when the Queen of England is going to stop by for dinner…)

½ pound of salicorn, picked over for weeds
1 clove of wet garlic, sliced
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
Freshly ground black pepper

Heat olive oil in a medium saucepan, add garlic and stir for 30 seconds. Add salicorn, sauté for 3-4 minutes, until heated through. Finish with a good grinding of black pepper. NO extra salt – the seaweed is plenty salty all on its own.