Fig Fest 2010

It's that time of year again.

Every September, I throw myself a little fig festival. A fig par-tay. Figapalooza, if you will. One of the many newfound pleasures of living in Provence is that fig season seems to go on and on. I made my first fig tart over a month ago, and my favorite fruit is still very much at the market. Figs are a coy fruit. Figs hide out a bit. Their exterior is sober, matte – a dignified, often dusky, royal purple. But crack one open, and you have a plupy, fleshy kaleidoscope of seeds. A ripe fig should give slightly when you squeeze.
Figs make an excellent transition from summer to autumn cusine. This is particularly useful this time of year in Provence, where you’ll be eating in the garden one day, turning on the heat the next.
Fresh figs are at home both al fresco, in a rocket salad with golden delicious apples, pine nuts and picnic cheeses,and inside, try these spicy chocolate pots with a side of figs to ease the first chill.

The other day, thanks to my babysitter (source of all knowledge), I discovered that the village has a public fig tree. I pass it every morning on the way back from the boulangerie. Like camembert for school lunches (see this terrific video) and paid maternity leave – that’s my kind of public service.

We will be deepening our village social life this weekend – inviting our neighbors over for tea. Another fig tart is definitely on the books. Between you and me: I have an ulterior motive. I’m trying to sweet talk (or feed) Mr. C into taking me mushroom hunting with him…
Fig and Almond tart

I’ve been in search of the perfect frangipane (almond cream) for most of the time that I’ve lived in France. I started with Eric Kayser's recipe (too greasy, too sweet for my taste), and the trial and error went on from there. The solution came from a colleague of G.’s. This is the almond cream she uses to stuff her galette des rois. It’s easy to make, sweet but not overwhelming, and the rum gives it the right to vote. I’m sure this tart would work nicely with pears as well…

1 good quality pre-made pastry crust

100 grams of salted butter, if you can find it with sea salt crystals – so much the better
100 grams of granulated sugar
3 eggs
1 tbsp dark rum
½ teaspoon almond extract
½ teaspoon vanilla extract
150-180 grams of ground (powdered) almonds
2 teaspoons of powdered sugar
6 or 7 ripe fresh figs – sliced (about 1/3 inch)
Small handful of pine nuts

Heat the oven to 375°F

Whip the butter until soft and airy. Add the sugar and cream the two together until light and fluffy. Add 2 eggs, whisk to combine.

Break the third egg into a cup, stir lightly. Pour ½ of the 3rd egg into the batter. Put the cup with the remaining ½ egg to one side. Add the rum, vanilla and almond extract to the batter, whisk to combine. Then add enough ground almonds so that the batter will hold its shape when mounded on the pastry – it should be just thick enough so that it doesn’t ooze all over the place like a B-movie blob.

Place the crust in a pan (preferably a metal tart pan with a removable bottom – metal helps the crust cook through). Leave the extra crust to hand over the edges. Prick the bottom of the crust with a fork. Top with the almond cream. Slice the figs on top. Scatter the pine nuts. Fold the extra crust over the top of the tart, to form a little border. Brush the top of the folded over crust with the remaining ½ egg.

Bake for 30-35 minutes, until golden and cooked through.

Serves 8