The King of Costco

Why do I disappear whenever I get back to the US? I guess because I'm trying to do a year's worth of work in 2 weeks - meetings stacked up one on top of the other like poker chips. Normally, I hate being away from my own kitchen, but I've been a guest in some truly lovely cooking spaces these past 10 days: molten chocolate cakes for 35 at the Alliance Francaise in Boston (dig their hulking cast iron stove and glass front cabinets) and last night I made gougeres (cheese puffs) for 50 at Grange NYC, in their sleek enameled Aga - a bit rock n roll at the beginning (that top hotplate is HOT) but I got the hang of it in the end. Thanks to Carol Gillott of Paris Breakfasts for her photos. I wish I was going to be in London in June for her exhibition at the Chelsea Arts Club.Augustin seems to be enjoying his NY sojourn. He got his first pair of snazzy sneakers and - a milestone - took his first trip to Costco. When he is a French teenager, wearing a long scarf and smoking Gauloise (I hope not!) I think I'll pull this one out of the album to show his first girlfriend!

It's my birthday today. G. sent me roses, or rather a photo of the roses in our new garden in Provence. Our garden. Hint, hint - huge news ahead.

Gougeres - Cheese Puffs

The perfect partner for a wine tasting. Add whatever flavors you like. Don't be afraid of recipes that puff, the trick is a hot pan and a quick hand.

1 cup water

1 stick (8 tbsp) unsalted butter

1 teaspoon table salt

1 cup flour

4 large large eggs

1 cup grated cheese (chedder, swiss, comte, asagio, etc)

3/4 cup chopped parma ham, diced

small handful of chives, chopped

2 teaspoons fresh rosemary, chopped

In a heavy bottomed saucepan, combine water, butter and salt. Bring to boil (it is important that the mix boil - if it doesn't, your batter won't take). Turn off the heat and working quickly, stir in the flour all at once. Immediately add two eggs and stir to combine. Immediately add the remaining 2 eggs and stir - the batter should look like a lump of marzipan. Add your cheese, ham, and herbs - or any combo of the above.

Using a tablespoon, place dollops of batter on cookie sheet covered with parchment paper. Leave enough room in between for some puffing in the oven.

Cook at 425F for 15 minutes. Lower the oven to 400F and cook with the oven slightly ajar, 12-15 minutes, until golden and puffed. That said, I've worked with ovens where you don't open the door or lower the temp at all...see what works best for you.

Makes 20-24 puffs