The King of Costco

Why do I disappear whenever I get back to the US? I guess because I'm trying to do a year's worth of work in 2 weeks - meetings stacked up one on top of the other like poker chips. Normally, I hate being away from my own kitchen, but I've been a guest in some truly lovely cooking spaces these past 10 days: molten chocolate cakes for 35 at the Alliance Francaise in Boston (dig their hulking cast iron stove and glass front cabinets) and last night I made gougeres (cheese puffs) for 50 at Grange NYC, in their sleek enameled Aga - a bit rock n roll at the beginning (that top hotplate is HOT) but I got the hang of it in the end. Thanks to Carol Gillott of Paris Breakfasts for her photos. I wish I was going to be in London in June for her exhibition at the Chelsea Arts Club.Augustin seems to be enjoying his NY sojourn. He got his first pair of snazzy sneakers and - a milestone - took his first trip to Costco. When he is a French teenager, wearing a long scarf and smoking Gauloise (I hope not!) I think I'll pull this one out of the album to show his first girlfriend!

It's my birthday today. G. sent me roses, or rather a photo of the roses in our new garden in Provence. Our garden. Hint, hint - huge news ahead.

Gougeres - Cheese Puffs

The perfect partner for a wine tasting. Add whatever flavors you like. Don't be afraid of recipes that puff, the trick is a hot pan and a quick hand.

1 cup water

1 stick (8 tbsp) unsalted butter

1 teaspoon table salt

1 cup flour

4 large large eggs

1 cup grated cheese (chedder, swiss, comte, asagio, etc)

3/4 cup chopped parma ham, diced

small handful of chives, chopped

2 teaspoons fresh rosemary, chopped

In a heavy bottomed saucepan, combine water, butter and salt. Bring to boil (it is important that the mix boil - if it doesn't, your batter won't take). Turn off the heat and working quickly, stir in the flour all at once. Immediately add two eggs and stir to combine. Immediately add the remaining 2 eggs and stir - the batter should look like a lump of marzipan. Add your cheese, ham, and herbs - or any combo of the above.

Using a tablespoon, place dollops of batter on cookie sheet covered with parchment paper. Leave enough room in between for some puffing in the oven.

Cook at 425F for 15 minutes. Lower the oven to 400F and cook with the oven slightly ajar, 12-15 minutes, until golden and puffed. That said, I've worked with ovens where you don't open the door or lower the temp at all...see what works best for you.

Makes 20-24 puffs

Oysters and Devil Dogs

I do enjoy torturing my husband. On our way up to Boston for a friend's wedding this weekend, I tried to get him to eat a Devil Dog. I do this occasionally - try feeding him Twinkies or Twizzlers or orange mac and cheese out of the box, just to give him a glimpse of my all American childhood. After all, shared cultural references are important in a marriage. So when we stopped for a bottle of water, I thought I'd try my luck with Hostess cakes. Getting a Frenchman to eat anything from a US highway rest stop is a bit of a stretch, but when you put it under plastic, and let him see the expiration date in 2038, failure is almost guaranteed. I love him anyway.

Lunch in Paris is the April book of the month on CommitmentNow.com - and after a weekend alone in a hotel with my husband (hurrah!), I am feeling very committed indeed. The hotel had an aquatic theme - so along with the sailboat carpet and coral sculptures, the "Do Not Disturb" sign said "I'm marinating", which made me feel like a hanger steak. That said, 8 months into parenthood, a girl can't get picky about her "Do Not Disturb" signs.

Thank you to friends and fans for Boston restaurant recommendations. The Neptune Oyster Bar was at the intersection of several lists. Your oyster picks go clockwise from the lemon. (I do like a restaurant with a well oiled system in place.) Our clams with garlic and white wine were simple, plump and briny. The baby octopus with Israeli couscous was a treat - it's a texture I adore - totally unavailable in France. The highlight of the evening was "Neptunes on Piggyback" - toasts of duck confit and spicy mayo topped with a juicy fried oyster, served with on a bed of marinated raisins and topped with a tangle of delicate greens.

I'm off to NMH, my old high school, today. I'm having lunch with my former theatre director - slightly odd to think that the last time he saw me I was wearing a corset (and had a 24 inch waist)...