Thursday, February 25, 2010

San Francisco Food Fest

San Francisco is my kind of town. I’ve always felt this way – it’s a combination of the whimsical Victorian architecture, the villagey neighborhoods – and of course, the food. If G. and I ever came back to live in the States – I feel certain this is where we would end up.

Breakfast is by far my favorite meal to eat out in the States – there is an alarming lack of French toast in France. So we were up at the crack of dawn on Saturday to beat the crowds at Mama’s. At 8:10am the line was already wrapped around the corner. They have the waiting down to a science (or rather an art). As the first round of tables is being served, the next round is standing by the counter, oogling the crab salad and the banana bread.Samples keep everyone from getting grumpy – ordering and paying at the register keeps the waiters’ work to a minimum. By the time your brioche French toast and Dungeness crab omelette with avocado, tomato and havarti arrives, you are calmly seated, with latte and freshly squeezed orange juice in hand. I conjured a brief image of the same scene in Paris – with fuming patrons lined up around the block for hours, wrong orders coming out by the dozens and not an apology or refund in sight…

Thinking we would never eat again, we went straight to the farmer’s market to meet the Jolly Green (Garlic) Giant (in plaid) with the free samples of fromage frais. This farmer’s market is the real reason I think I could live in San Francisco.. There’s a stand with tart dried apricots worth the round the world flight I’ve just been on. We bought some graceful French tulips with the bulbs still attached. We were ready to go – but the 2 ½ year old just had to stop to sample the blue cheese.

Sunday we found ourselves at Tara Firma Farms for a birthday party/guided tour. Two years ago, the owners (previously selling insurance) read The Omnivore’s Dilemma and decided this was their calling. Our guide – one half of the couple –was passionate, if slightly on the self-righteous side.It’s incredible what they have accomplished in a very short period of time, but it’s hard to stay on your high-horse about a $24 chicken.

The real highlight of my San Fran foodie tour was a Persian feast at the home of a dear family friend. Her daughter swears she never cooks anymore - but everytime I come to town, she pulls out all the stops: Shirin Polo - a wedding rice with orange rind, almonds, pastichos, dried barberries and saffron. Ghormeh Sabzii - a lamb, herb and bean stew.My favorite is the tadig - the crisp potato cake that cooks at the bottom of the rice. I stole one in the kitchen. I'm currently snowed in back in NY for a few more days – an oh so excellent excuse to make pot roast and noodle pudding!

6 comments:

  1. please post recipe for shirin polo

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  2. I am so glad I found you. I just finished your book and loved living your adventures. Merci beaucoup.

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  3. I've found a number of shirin polo recipes on the internet. Here's one:

    http://www.theworldwidegourmet.com/recipes/rice-with-saffron-chicken-orange-zest-and-pistachios-shirin-polo/

    P.S. - My friend's mom adds dried barberries to the orange/carrot/nut mixture. Dried cranberries might be a second choice (not quite as tart, but easier to find).

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  4. Oh, how I love SF! I lived there for seven years and clearly remember stopping at Mama's on my way to work (during the week - weekends, trop impossible!) for a big, fat breakfast. Did you make it to Tartine Bakery?

    As for French toast in Paris, I found a pretty delicious specimen - albeit for dessert - at Au 35 in the 6eme.

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  5. I just read about the Persian dinner you had!
    Miam...miam
    Love Persian food...my brother-in-law is Persian..tadig!!!

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